Sri Prabhupada famously lit his lamp on one verse that makes a lot of sense once experienced:
“The west lives in ignorance while India is limping.”
This observation I found while visiting India: Rishikesh.
Rishikesh, at the foothills of the salty Himalayas, is supposed to be one of the spiritual capitals of the country. Though I haven’t travelled through the rest of India, 10 days in the city was enough to feel the flow of life. A mixture of Indians, Australians, Israelis, Russians, and a few Americans and Polish beings (my husband and I) dotted the roads in the constant heavy traffic.
It was absolutely sublime to come back to London and use a normal toilet, I must admit.
“How was India?” my friends would ask.
“It was a challenge.”
“You didn’t like it, then?”
“Of course I liked it. But it wasn’t a holiday.”
This is one unsuspected, ornamental, phrase that no Londoner likes to hear. It wasn’t 100% pleasureable, like that candy-wrapped Magnum ice cream bar? Smiles, nods, and adventure weren’t around every falafel stand?
No. When you hike into the Himalayas in upper 30-degree weather just to find out what’s happening a few kilometres on top, and you don’t drive, so you wear your best sandals and hope they will still be on your feet later. Are there bears? Or biting monkeys — stealing your nuts?
No. When you’re hungry as hell and just want a pocket of rice, because you’re crazy and vegan, and they accidentally forget (every time), and you wait one hour, because they don’t give a shit that you just came from Morocco to get there.
No. When the guy at the ashram takes advantage of your interest in Hindu astrology by letting you know “you absolutely need this ring, and it looks absolutely fabulous on you!” and you assume it’s cheaper than you could buy in London. And he literally goes to the metal smith to make it, and theeeeeeeen tells you the price and you discover your wedding ring wasn’t nearly as much and he hopes you feel guilty, because it’s being made in exactly your shade of moon-red and blood-orange by hand, right now.
No. When you drive 8 hours by cab and think you have shit in your pants already, but then a boat full of motorcycles with babies on board weaves into view. And the taxi driver tells you he’s not even that confident. Oops.
No. A young 20-something man in the Rishikesh community fell to his death off a cliff, because of a stupid, spontaneous, trip to the mountains.
But, India is also a house for the greatest spiritual wisdom and knowledge, or gnosis, in the world. China and Tibet have their hands also in the greatest, most peaceful, prognosis of the insatiable Buddhist brotherhood. They are neighbours, and though differing in their spiritual inclinations, it is clear that Brahma and Dharma reveal a similar affair.
Hinduism, a hot-pot of people free to choose fire, or water, or air to worship, or Shiva, Ganesha, Shakti, or Vishnu has come a long way from the days of the Vedas. I don’t know for sure; I wasn’t there. But what I do know is that without question, without nodding or tut-tutting, without strangeness, any divine object or being is fair game to worship. Even the Buddha. Even the idea of the Buddha’s message, which is much recommended.
Leave flowers to your Shiva Lingam.
Pour smoke from a fire over your head.
Sing to Krishna, dance with his photograph hanging right in your mind.
Sit down to meditate. Prostrate. 108 times. Prostrate. 107 times. Encircle a shrine. Exactly 8 times.
It doesn’t matter. All is creation. Creation is all.
But, even God cannot contain culture.
Open defecation for four in ten households is still a problem; the numbers are highest in rural areas, and the stigma of installing toilets and having to clean them like “certain members of castes” is stalling for time. The government’s programme to outdo open defecation is also being enforced by shame: teams of officials, roaming around to find perpetrators, stealing their buckets and replacing them with roses. But the good news is that 11 states in India are now open-defecation-free.
India is staggeringly populated and equally chaotic-feeling. To contain such a rich and diverse people would be much to the demise of a smaller higher-order. When teaching in China, I remember being told it was not legal to have sex in public… but you might as well try, because there’s too many people and not enough cops to keep up the pace. So it happens. So what happens in India, all over? I wonder.
But then I recall the chanting of alms, in the temples, late near 9:00pm at night:
Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna, Krishna, Krishna, Hare, Hare…
It sounded slower and with more depth than in London, in our city. The metal kartal bells slowed down time and clanked each other, warmly. The humid temples house regular visitors, genuine to their overlord Krishna in an act of Bhakti Yoga. It’s not for a show, or a spectacle, though. It’s a supra-mundane part of their day where worship, the bread, holds the country’s hybrid soup together, en masse.
The west, the UK, is seriously missing the natural flow of spirituality that runs through the veins of a country like a river. Why should it be strange to chant on the street or smile at a ‘stranger’, for no reason, regardless of your own mood? Why do we feel guilty for self-enquiring, asking the question pertinently, relentlessly, “Who am I?” in silence, not only in our bedroom but in the open gates of a forest or park? Why aren’t more mothers resting underneath trees with crossed legs, just breathing, between cappuccinos and telephone calls?
As Sri Prabhupada notes, the west lives in ignorance and India is limping. Which is worse? They are a shared denotation of the divine, all in its good lila. But we need each other. The west needs India and her wisdom: how to stop and just be. And India needs the west: how to move up the material ladder.
Also, a good toilet infrastructure is necessary, road rules are there for a reason, and brotherhood in meditation and ecstatic dance goes a long way.
And there’s no shame in admitting to either.